EMERGENCY FORM

NOTE: Be careful when walking any roof surface. Areas which cause injury are: Slippery roof system due to mildew, rotted decking covered by the roofing material and unseen, pipes and vents which may not be noticed, metal is very slippery at all times. If you have a flat roof section, it is advised to set up the ladder there as it is easier to get on/off a ladder from a flat surface.

If the ceiling is holding water, use a screwdriver or pen and poke a hole in the center of the bulge. This will funnel the water to that one spot saving the ceiling and helping to collect the water in one stream.

• Obviously pots and buckets work well, but the best thing to use on large leaks is your garbage pail, provide by Waste Management. Their pails have a large capacity and wheels, which make it easy to empty.
• On pitch roofs (Shingle, Tile & Metal) it is best to cover the effected area with plastic or a tarp. Make sure the tarp is extended over the ridgeline. Otherwise water will simply run under the tarp and continue to leak.
• Shingle Roofs: To hold down the tarp feel free to use any type of fastener you may have on hand. As a roofer, it is very easy for us to replace those shingles and seal the hole. You will not be creating new leaks as long as the fastener stays secure. Screws work the best.
• Tile Roofs: Tile does not stop water from entering the roof system. The true water barrier is the underlayment. Trying to seal tile cracks will not stop the leak in most cases. If it is impractical to cover the area look for common leak areas like penetrations, walls, skylights, valley and chimney areas. If these are nearby or just above where the leak is entering it is likely the cause of your water seepage. Tiles are easily removed and replaced. Take care not to damage the underlayment when removing tiles as this could make the situation much worse. Place the extra tiles aside stacked no more than four (4) high. Look for cracks, separation, holes, etc. where the water could be entering. Seal using caulking, mastic, glue, silicone, etc.
• 
  Metal Roofs: Metal is much easier to locate issues. In most cases the leak is caused from one of three areas:
  1. Fasteners: As screws age, their EPDM washer deteriorates. Simply seal the entire fastener using silicone caulking. This is only a temporary repair and will rust out the metal if not fixed properly.
  2. Penetrations: Any area where a hold is cut through the metal panels is a potential leak. If not completely flashed correctly these areas may cause leaks, even with sealants. Although adding sealant may stop the leak temporarily, the sealants must be cleaned as not to trap moisture and cause metal rusting.
  3. Seam and Flashing Overlaps: Where two metal flashings or panels overlap there is a chance for water to "wick" up the transition and cause seepage. Again, although adding sealant may stop the leak temporarily, the sealants must be cleaned as not to trap moisture and cause metal rusting.
• Flat Roofs: Tarps and plastic is almost never a good way to stop water seepage. Since most flat roofs have either a pitch roof or parapet/mansard at the perimeter, the water will simply flow under the tarp. Also, any small hold in the tarp will allow water to enter and pool, causing a more damaging situation. The best way to stop water is to broom sitting water off the roof and look for areas of cracking or separation. Obvious areas of concern are perimeter flashings, boots, vents, pitch pans, tie-ins to pitch roofs or walls and drains. Drains are almost impossible to temporarily repair due to the fact that the entire roof’s watershed is designed to flow towards the drain.

• Silicone (or other type of caulking)
• Glue
• Plastic Roof Cement
• Tarps
• Visqueen
• Garbage Bags
• Duct Tape (or other type)
• Doe (1 cup warm water 4 cups flour. Heat for a few minutes so still tacky, yet stiff on outside. Use to form over leak areas)